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Cartier’s Roadster May Never Win Everyone Over, But It Sparked Plenty of Talk at Watches & Wonders

Watches & Wonders 2026 - montre Cartier Roadster
Source: DR

Editor's Note

This editor’s note highlights the key facts and market implications behind “Cartier’s Roadster May Never Win Everyone Over, “, with emphasis on sourcing, product fit, fabrication, logistics, or buyer impact.

Ludovic Bonnet 25 April 2026 Cartier's watch collections are not limited to the timeless Tank and Santos or the exuberant Crash. The Parisian house made this clear at Watches & Wonders by highlighting historical collections that the general public sometimes tends to forget: Tortue, Baignoire, and Roadster. The latter, in particular, celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2026 and continues to divide opinion with its shaped case and oversized crown.

An Icon of the 2000s That Never Managed to Please Everyone

When Cartier unveiled the Roadster in the early 2000s, the house was operating in a very specific context. Mechanical watchmaking was making a strong comeback after the quartz crisis, and brands were seeking to attract a younger clientele drawn to watches that were both sporty and status-oriented. The Roadster precisely met this ambition. Its design leaves no one indifferent. The tonneau case, stretched and curved, immediately evokes the bodies of sports cars from the 1950s and 1960s. For some, this is mere marketing pretext, but the automotive reference is present in every curve, in the fluidity of the lines, and even in the cyclops lens organically integrated into the crystal, like a stylized windshield. Added to this is an oversized crown, set with a cabochon, which reinforces the model's visual identity. By launching the Roadster at that time, Cartier also confirmed its desire to explore new territories. While the Santos established itself as a sporty-chic watch ahead of its time and the Tank remained a pillar of classic watchmaking, the Roadster adopted a bolder positioning. It appealed to a generation seduced by the codes of contemporary luxury, less attached to conventions. Moreover, the model also stood out for its interchangeable bracelet system, relatively innovative for its era. This detail, now commonplace, contributed to the image of a watch designed for daily use, adaptable and dynamic.

Ludovic Bonnet

Yet, despite these qualities, as noted, the Roadster never achieved unanimous approval. Too massive for some, too stylistically marked for others, it remains a divisive piece. But that is precisely what makes it interesting today.

In 2026, the Roadster Softens… But Remains Just as Divisive

In its massive booth at Watches & Wonders, Cartier did not settle for a discreet tribute. The house chose to put the Roadster back in the spotlight, alongside other historical collections, continuing to offer a broad reinterpretation of its heritage. The model presented this year does not seek to smooth over the Roadster's rough edges. On the contrary, Cartier seems to fully embrace what made its identity. Available in two sizes (47×38 mm and 42.5×34.9 mm), the case retains its assertive proportions, the crown remains imposing, and the overall silhouette does not deny its origins. On the dial, offered in rather classic colors, the oversized Roman numerals provide excellent legibility. To power the whole, Cartier has opted for in-house automatic movements (1847 MC and 1899 MC depending on the version), offering around forty hours of power reserve. In other words, this is far from a radical modernization exercise. But precisely, in the current landscape, the Roadster finds a new relevance, as the market shows a clear resurgence of interest in shaped watches. In this context, one could almost say it appears ahead of its time, with a design once deemed excessive but now fitting into a more accepted, even sought-after aesthetic. Facing competitors like the Vanguard by Franck Muller or certain creations by Richard Mille, the Roadster relies on typical Cartier elegance, made of subtle details and historical references. So no, it won't please everyone… but deep down, is that really necessary? Source: DR

Source: Read the original article | Published: April 25, 2026

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